Portugal: Marvão

Wednesday 4th - Thursday 5th May 2022

Thanks to Covid, I just finally went home for the 1st time in 3 years. We were greeted with sun and 30⁰C. That's what I call a welcome treat!

If you, like us, are an emigrant, you are painfully aware that there isn't a long enough holiday to fit in all the visits to friends and family you want to do. After 10 years you realise that those holidays are not really holidays and you are in dire need of a proper holiday when the holidays are over.

We started allocating time to relax and to do a bit of tourism, regardless of how many complaints we get, because we need it and we're worth it!

This year we decided to go to Marvão for a few days. We worked on the production of vitamin D, aka plenty of sun exposure, slept loads and ate to our heart's content.

Marvão is a village in the north of Alentejo, near the Spanish border, standing on top of a huge rock on the Serra de São Mamede with sweeping views across the plains. It has been settled since prehistoric times and has had a fortification since the Romans due to it's strategical location.

Stone-paved streets lined with white-washed houses, a Medieval castle and city walls, Marvão is a picture postcard village.

Village walls

The Medieval walls are practically intact and there is a single access archway to the village, a bent entrance, narrow and on a 90⁰ angle, typical of a Medieval gateway. Not far from the gateway, by the bicycle parking, you can climb on the wall and go up a very steep part of the wall all the way to the castle entrance. There are no safety features like handrails so climb at your own peril. The steps are narrow at times but stable, the incline will make you sweat but the views are worth it.

The walls enclose the village and it is possible to hop on them and go around the village. The views are breathtaking.

Castle

The castle crowns perfectly the huge granite rock it stands on at 843m high. 

Construction of the castle started under the 9th century Islamic knight Ibn Maruán, it was expanded in the 13-14th century by King Dinis and has had several remodelling since. The last time the castle saw any military action was in 1833 so pretty much 10 centuries of use as a fortification.

Approach to the castle.

Castle illuminated at night with the colours of the Portuguese flag.

There are two encircled courtyards in the castle linked by a long walk. 

The south courtyards' tower affords good views of the village.

The north courtyards' Keep is accessed by a drawbridge and from the top you have fantastic views.

North courtyard.

Castle layout.

Panoramic of the view north of the walls.

The castle's cistern it's one of the biggest in a Portuguese castle. It is 10m high and 46m length and it could hold enough water to keep the village going for 6 months. It has a vaulted ceiling with ten stone ribs.

The castle walls can be walked around and afford 360⁰ views.

The Keep in the north courtyard.

The tower on the south courtyard.

Visiting the castle costs €1.50.

We stayed at Hotel El-Rei Dom Manuel, where it's always certain that you will sleep and dine well.

Varanda do Alentejo restaurant is also a good choice for dinner.