Thursday, 6th October 2022
Distance: 20km
Time: 7h30min (5h30min walking time)
Average moving speed: 3.6km/h
Elevation gain: 1000m
There are two items missing from both flats so far: microwave and toaster. We'll have to wait for the flat on the coast to make a final assumption.
Warming up milk involves something I haven't used since I was a child: a stove and a milk pot.
11⁰C when we started the day at 10am. Much better than yesterday's 2⁰C.
Today we are climbing the Planinica peak (2330m altitude), the name meaning 'small mountain'.
The trail is straight so 10km to the top and then another 10km to return. It is well signposted.
The initial idea was to climb the highest peak in the Durmitor NP and the second highest in Montenegro, Bobotov Kuk peak (2523m altitude), but it involved scrambling and we had enough of it in Wales back in April.
The trail starts at Ivan Do (1450m altitude) and we left the car at the car park. Parking costs €2 for the day and there is no ticket for the car. According to the ranger, there is CCTV. We couldn't see any cameras...
Today we bought the ticket to enter the national park. Online it shows several options of tickets but, in reality, there are only two:
- 1 day ticket for €3/person.
- Annual ticket for €13.50/person.
We bought the seasonal ticket. It gives you access to all Montenegrin national parks for a year. If you are visiting for 5 or more days, it is the most economical option.
Ivan Do has a very Alpine feel.
The first 3km of the trail have a very slow incline and is common to the lakes trail.
The second part is still forest but the incline increases and it becomes more technical with plenty of rocks.
Conifers are mainly spruces and firs as the cones are conical and long.
There are deciduous trees (ash, elm, maple) as well. Beautiful Autumn colours!
Fallen trees are left where they fall, even if they obstruct the trail.
Moss continues to be a constant.
So do mushrooms.
We sat on a wide rock for lunch with a view.
The third part of the trail becomes bare. Small pines, ground vegetation and rocks.
Cones are round and small so clearly more pines now, rather then spruces or firs.
A couple of plateaux where we could rest our legs from climbing at 1700m and 1900m high.
Near the 1950m mark Manuel decided he had had enough. He sat by small pines and waited for us to return from the top.
The fourth and last part is the top of the peak, the last 300m altitude. It is seriously steep!
We thought we were running out of daylight hours and me and Jorge started walking faster. At one point I was hyperventilating hard. When I though we were close, we weren't there yet, it was the peak after the next. I almost lost the will to carry on. Jorge never leaves me behind and, at times, when I need encouragement, holds my hand and pulls me along.
Near the top, pines occlude the trail. We had to push through them.
Finally we arrived (2330m altitude). The view from the top is described as one of the best in the park and it did not disappoint.
We didn't linger. It took 4.5h to reach the top, we needed to get going. Jumper, hat, a banana and we start the descent.
5min down we cross path with a couple. 'Did you see the lakes?', the gentleman asks. 'What lakes?', we reply. 'You must see the lakes. They can only be visited on foot and this is the best way to see them. You cannot leave without seeing them! Let's go up together.'
He was nice, had a warm smile and, although politely, he left no room for discussion. And up we went again because the lakes must be seen!
He was right. At the southwest edge of Planinica's top we can see them. The Škrčko Lakes, at 1687m high, surrounded by peaks (Prutaš, Sareni, Soj and Bobotov Kuk): Veliko Škrčko Jezero (Big Škrčko Lake) and Malo Škrčko Jezero (Small Škrčko Lake). Big Škrčko Lake is sometimes called the Green Lake because of its green water colour. The Small Škrčko Lake is almost empty.
Descent took us 3h. It was easier and faster and we made it before sunset.
We were exhausted and in serious need to stretch our legs. We dragged ourselves to Žabljak and ordered takeaway pizzas from Balkan Pizzeria. The two pizzas cost €15 and were one of the best we have ever had.
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