Bye bye Masai Mara, you have been good to us.
Today we headed to Lake Naivasha. It rained overnight again so we took the same route out of Masai Mara. The private road.
This time Felix managed to negotiate with some of the Masai toll 'guards' and we didn't pay a few. However, the trip was not to be without hiccups.
As we approach a river we need to cross, a van like ours was semi-submerged and had 2 tourists in it. At first we though it had been dragged by the force of the water but the water wasn't that deep and our van crossed the river easily. We soon realised that it was the steep river bank on the opposite side that was very muddy and had caused them to slide down the bank and into the river.
Felix stops the van to investigate. The tourists, an American couple, tell him the driver had left them about 30mim ago to try to get phone signal and ask for help. Felix is not happy to leave them alone as they might panic if their driver takes too long, so tells us we'll be waiting. We find his attitude outstanding!
We engage in conversation with the man to pass the time. He had managed to come out with the help of Felix and a local passer-by. Like us, they were heading to Naivasha. The river is beautiful, full of granite and quartz pebbles, and surrounded by pretty yellow barked acacias.
Today we headed to Lake Naivasha. It rained overnight again so we took the same route out of Masai Mara. The private road.
This time Felix managed to negotiate with some of the Masai toll 'guards' and we didn't pay a few. However, the trip was not to be without hiccups.
As we approach a river we need to cross, a van like ours was semi-submerged and had 2 tourists in it. At first we though it had been dragged by the force of the water but the water wasn't that deep and our van crossed the river easily. We soon realised that it was the steep river bank on the opposite side that was very muddy and had caused them to slide down the bank and into the river.
Felix stops the van to investigate. The tourists, an American couple, tell him the driver had left them about 30mim ago to try to get phone signal and ask for help. Felix is not happy to leave them alone as they might panic if their driver takes too long, so tells us we'll be waiting. We find his attitude outstanding!
We engage in conversation with the man to pass the time. He had managed to come out with the help of Felix and a local passer-by. Like us, they were heading to Naivasha. The river is beautiful, full of granite and quartz pebbles, and surrounded by pretty yellow barked acacias.
After 15-20min their driver returns. He has called for help and a 4x4 will be coming to pull them out of the river.
Felix studies the river bank beforehand and manages to get our van up the bank. We cheer! With a 'so long and good luck' we leave the couple with their driver and continue on our way. Before we leave the private road and join the main road north, we see a Land Cruiser with park rangers in it going the opposite direction. Help is indeed on the way!
Lunch at a small roadside station. Picnic. Felix has a box with paper lunch bags for us. Same lunch as yesterday so a bit boring but definitely filling: a leg/breast of roasted chicken; a triple layered sandwich with cucumber, tomatoes, butter and some kind of processed meat (too big and too much butter!); a bag of ketchup flavoured crisps (not my cup of tea but Manuel was happy), a fruit juice, an apple and a banana.
I can't manage to eat all of my chicken so I decide to give the leftovers to a hungry stray cat. He eats all the meat and half the bones! A polite cat he is too as he gently meows and rubs my legs as a thank you.
By the time we got to lunch I had a massive headache. I had already taken paracetamol and ibuprofen with little effect. Manuel has this gigantic tablets of 600mg ibuprofen which are big to swallow and also made me feel nauseous. I had not taken this much ibuprofen in one go before...
I start thinking that the headaches are a side-effect of the malaria tablets. I had taken them after breakfast and it's the second day running with headaches... That was until we stopped for lunch and there was an actual coffee machine in situ. I order a cappuccino and a cappuccino I was served! In the middle of nowhere! 30min later the headaches were gone. Caffeine junky!
We pass Narok again and whereas the city looked sleepy on Sunday, today is bubbling with activity. Shops are all open. Children dressed in school uniforms and heading to school. Motorbikes and donkey carts full of produce heading to the market. We saw a motorcyclist taking 2 sheep in a basket on the back of the bike and another sheep between his legs. Insane!
As we approach Naivasha Felix tells us that Naivasha used to be Masai land but due to immigration it is now populated by people of many different tribes. Naivasha has a tourism industry and also a flower industry, alongside tilapia fishing. Many of the roses we buy in the UK are grown here. This much work attracts people.
Naivasha looks like a big city. There is tarmac on side roads, not just on main roads. Less rubbish on the streets. Buildings are higher, 2-4 stories high. Plenty of shops. People galore in the streets, so many it is sometimes difficult to keep driving. Traffic signs are taken more as a suggestion than an obligation and the road is shared between cars, people and animals alike.
Felix drops us at our accommodation and tells us we have the afternoon free. We are not sure what to do as it is 3.30pm.
Let's go for a walk and find our way to the lake, I say. We are staying in the hills surrounding the lake so it's a bit to walk but we have time until 7pm dinner.
Jorge is a bit hesitant. Is it safe? Our accommodation has a gate and we have seen that gates, window bars and heavy locks are the norm pretty much everywhere.
I have a plan! We take a very small amount of money and our (cheap with broken screens) phones so we can navigate, nothing else. We're dressed in jeans and t-shirt so shouldn't stand out. Jorge points out we're white... we stand out! Would he let me finish?, I say. Walk with confidence, look straight ahead and at people, do not shy away, and speak Portuguese if someone starts bothering us. What's the likelihood anyone will understand us?
The plan works. We attract attention but are left alone. Very few people try to sell us something in English but as they get an answer in Portuguese, they get the point and back out.
We walk through the streets and find the post office. It looks like a collection of PO boxes. With such chaotic building construction, it makes sense to have PO boxes instead of a mailman.
Throughout the city there are groups of motorcycle riders with hi-vis vests on top of jackets waiting around in groups. Helmets are optional. They are taxis! Transport of people and cargo around town. If you can pile it, I can deliver it!
I start thinking that the headaches are a side-effect of the malaria tablets. I had taken them after breakfast and it's the second day running with headaches... That was until we stopped for lunch and there was an actual coffee machine in situ. I order a cappuccino and a cappuccino I was served! In the middle of nowhere! 30min later the headaches were gone. Caffeine junky!
We pass Narok again and whereas the city looked sleepy on Sunday, today is bubbling with activity. Shops are all open. Children dressed in school uniforms and heading to school. Motorbikes and donkey carts full of produce heading to the market. We saw a motorcyclist taking 2 sheep in a basket on the back of the bike and another sheep between his legs. Insane!
Naivasha looks like a big city. There is tarmac on side roads, not just on main roads. Less rubbish on the streets. Buildings are higher, 2-4 stories high. Plenty of shops. People galore in the streets, so many it is sometimes difficult to keep driving. Traffic signs are taken more as a suggestion than an obligation and the road is shared between cars, people and animals alike.
Felix drops us at our accommodation and tells us we have the afternoon free. We are not sure what to do as it is 3.30pm.
Let's go for a walk and find our way to the lake, I say. We are staying in the hills surrounding the lake so it's a bit to walk but we have time until 7pm dinner.
Jorge is a bit hesitant. Is it safe? Our accommodation has a gate and we have seen that gates, window bars and heavy locks are the norm pretty much everywhere.
I have a plan! We take a very small amount of money and our (cheap with broken screens) phones so we can navigate, nothing else. We're dressed in jeans and t-shirt so shouldn't stand out. Jorge points out we're white... we stand out! Would he let me finish?, I say. Walk with confidence, look straight ahead and at people, do not shy away, and speak Portuguese if someone starts bothering us. What's the likelihood anyone will understand us?
The plan works. We attract attention but are left alone. Very few people try to sell us something in English but as they get an answer in Portuguese, they get the point and back out.
We walk through the streets and find the post office. It looks like a collection of PO boxes. With such chaotic building construction, it makes sense to have PO boxes instead of a mailman.
Throughout the city there are groups of motorcycle riders with hi-vis vests on top of jackets waiting around in groups. Helmets are optional. They are taxis! Transport of people and cargo around town. If you can pile it, I can deliver it!
The market was busy! It looked like the fruit and vegetables were sold in stalls inside the market area and outside there were makeshift stalls along the roads selling a bit of everything else.
The local supermarket was very similar to the one in Narok. Prices similar. We found a Milk ATM in it. It's a milk dispensing machine. Bring your container, insert coins and select how much milk you want. Fresh milk. This system also exists in the UK but fresh milk can only be sold directly from the farm.
The route near the lake was very bushy or through dirt roads with a dodgy feel so we decided not to try to get to the lake.
2h later we return to our accommodation. Shower was warm but it's one of those showers with no partition so the whole shower room gets flooded! It does explain why the toilet paper was placed in a high position, so high I struggle to reach it.
Fried fish for dinner is a welcome change. We hope it's tilapia from Lake Naivasha.
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