Hadrian's Wall Path Day 1: Wallsend to Heddon-on-the Wall

Monday, 31st May 2021

Weather: 17⁰C, sunny
Distance: 28km
Time: 8h 28min (6h 50min walking time)

Average moving speed: 4.1km/h

Max elevation: 178m

Min elevation: sea level

Elevation gain: 415m

We woke up early. A very good night's sleep without noisy guests at the hostel last night. We were pumped up and ready to hit the road!

Heading to the Metro at Monument station, stocking up on supplies for breakfast and lunch at the Sainsbury's inside the station. Breakfast was eaten whilst waiting for the train and a short 10 min later we were at Wallsend station. Starting time for today's walk was 8.30am.

I had stamped the passport the day before at the museum as we were starting earlier than the opening time of the Segedunum Fort but when we went past the rear of the fort, where the walk begins, we realised that there is a box outside the back door with a stamp inside. The back door has a gate but it's not locked!

Bowness-on-Solway, here we go!

Today's route is pretty flat and very urban and it doesn't keep to the line of Hadrian's Wall, which is mostly hidden under the streets of Newcastle.

We need to walk as many kilometres as we can whilst we are still strong and the route is flat. It's going to be long but it has to be done.

A shared footpath & cycleway to begin with which uses the track bed of an old railway. 

The walk joins the river Tyne.

St. Peter's Marina is laid out with colonnades along the quay which reminded me of the Liverpool Docks. Instead of warehouses, it has apartments and shops.

Soon, Newcastle's iconic bridges are in view.

Moving through the centre which we visited the previous days, the route continues westwards along what used to be the industrial, and unsightly, part of Newcastle. The river bank has now a very pleasant footpath & cycleway by the river. There are some seating areas one can use for a stop.

It's so early in the walk and we are passing so many walkers going the opposite direction. Today will be their last day as they head to Segedunum Fort. They stop to talk, are very cheerful, exult the beauties of the walk, curse the hot weather and give us precious tips for the days to come. Walkers can be such a jolly bunch!

For a while the route follows a not very pleasant main road.

As we finally leave the road behind, we decide to stop for lunch, feet rest and a quick nap.

We meet a group of 5 ladies, from London, who started the walk today and are planning to walk it in 5 days. They have small day backpacks and are using a baggage transfer service (a courier collects your baggage from your accommodation in the morning and delivers it to your next accommodation in the afternoon). This way they avoid weight and can walk faster. It is a good idea and for a bit my feet are telling me that I should consider it as they start to ache but for me that's cheating and I'm sticking to my guns!

Along the river Tyne and for a while we walk through the Tyne Riverside Country Park.

Ice-cream vans are always popular in hot days.

One hour after the lunch stop I need to stop again. My feet are killing me! They are hot and sweaty in the boots and they burn if I stop. Boots and socks off and a half hour to cool the feet is essential.

Heddon-on-the-Wall can be seen high on the hill. I drag my feet through the golf course (Close House Golf Course) followed by a woodland. I am down to my last ions of energy and in serious need to stop.

Not in the mood for sightseeing, we head straight to the accommodation: Houghton North Farm. It costs £60 for 1 room with breakfast for both. 

We have a small twin room with a small little window. It's clean and the beds are comfortable.

There is a living room, a glassed corridor that links the rooms with plenty of afternoon sun and an outside patio which we use to dry our freshly washed socks. 

The shared toilet facilities have interesting toilet seats.

Paula, our host, is very helpful. She has a few dogs and they aren't all friendly but we don't mind dogs that bark but don't bite.

My legs were flat on the bed for 1 hour. I really needed it! I gathered some energy for a shower and we went out for an early dinner at the local pub: Three Tuns. The mains were good, the desserts not as much. Dinner was £40.20. We could have a discount as guests of Houghton North Farm but we forgot!

Guess who is also staying at the same accommodation? The same group of 5 ladies who we met earlier in the day. They are experienced walkers and are used to long walks. We chat for a while before bedtime.