Hadrian's Wall Path Day 8: Carlisle to Bowness-on-Solway

Monday, 7th June 2021

Weather: 15⁰C, sunny
Distance: 27.3km
Time: 7h 44min (5h 57min walking time)

Average moving speed: 4.6km/h

Max elevation: 32m

Min elevation: 4m

Elevation gain: 170m

I like Travelodge because you always know what you are getting. The beds are always extremely comfortable and the rooms are spacious and clean. The one we stayed only had a flaw: ginormous windows! The building looks like it used to be a factory of some sort so the bedrooms have those tall and wall to wall windows. Amazing light during the day but the curtain's blackout wasn't enough. Even the eye mask struggled to help me...

I can't believe today is our last day! It has been hard but with such gorgeous weather and magnificent scenery, I wish we would keep going.

We picked up food for lunch from Marks & Spencer and had breakfast al fresco at the Market Square: Espresso Hub Café. Service was slow and it was past 10am when we set off. At least it was very filling!

My calculations pointed to a 23km day. It ended up being 27km. A long day we had ahead of us and we were starting an hour later than we should. However, for the first time, we were not carrying our backpacks. We would be returning to Carlisle tonight so we would be walking light.

The path inside Carlisle is a riverside walk. Trailing alongside river Eden through a tree-lined path, passing greens and even being greeted by a peeking castle tower behind sports grounds.

We also went pass the Sands Centre, where one of the stamp's for the passport is supposed to be. I was happy to have stamped the passport yesterday at Birdoswald as the Centre was closed.

We say goodbye to the river at Grinsdale. At some point amongst the houses, a standalone fridge with cold drinks makes an appearance. The Northerners are so considerate!

Lunch stop at Beaumont, on the grass of St Mary's Church.

Beaumont ('beautiful hill') was named by the Normans. Hadrian's Wall passes through Beaumont and the Normans built a castle in the site of the Roman milecastle, using stone from the fort and Wall. The first church was then built on the same site around 1100 and today's church stands on the same stop.

Further afield we pass Burgh by Sands. I would recommend walking around St Michael's Church. It was built in the 12th century using stone from the Roman fort of Aballava which stood here. In the 14th century a pele tower was incorporated. The tower makes the church look like a castle.

The most important feature of the church is actually the water tap at the back. It has a lot of pressure so any excess water can be drained into the water bowl on the ground. Both humans and canines can quench their thirst.

From Dykesfield onward we enter salt marshland. It's exposed to the wind and the sun no longer warms us.

At exceptionally high spring tides the whole area can be under many feet of water. The guidebook for the walk advises checking the tidal predictions for Silloth, the nearest port for which they are available. The National Trail Officers post monthly forecasts on noticeboards at the eastern entrance of the marshland (marked with a cattle grid) and at the edge of Bowness-on-Solway.

By this time I was tired and my feet were seriously aching. We stopped a couple of times for rest but the wind was making me feel cold so I had no option but to continue.

The area is flat so views are far reaching. Fells to the south and salt marshes and sandbanks to the north. Cattle graze the marshland and the Solway Firth is a bird haven.

The symbol of the Solway Coast is the oystercatcher which can be seen looking for food in the marshes. It has a distinct look but I did not manage to take a picture. It has black and white plumage, orange beak and pink legs.

credits: www.livingseasnw.org.uk

When we reached Bowness-on-Solway I was more than ready to call it a day. Jorge looks much better than me!

Into the village we walked to find the official end / start of the Hadrian's Wall Path, the Romanesque wooden shelter at The Banks Promenade, overlooking the Solway. 

Here we also completed our passport by adding the last stamp, which can be found at the wooden shelter. There are other two locations where the stamp can be obtained: The King's Arms (local pub) and Lindow Hall (accommodation). Challenge completed, passport fully stamped!

A cold drink at the King's Arms, waiting for the bus which would take us back to Carlisle. 

We managed to arrive on time for the last bus of the day at 18h50. I greeted the bus driver with 'You have no idea how happy I am to see you!'. He smiled with a knowing look. We were the only passengers almost all the way to Carlisle.

I dragged myself to the hotel, sprawled on the bed and refused to get up. Jorge got us dinner from the local Tesco's as my arms were all I could move.

Remember when I said this morning that I wished we kept going? At the end of the day I was exhausted, I had very achy feet and tired legs and I couldn't go any longer. Nope, this was it. I'm ready for a holiday now.