Guernsey - trip accounts

We've had these baseball caps for more than 20 years. We rarely use them but they keep coming along with us each time we move house. I don't think we can come to terms to dispose of them, there is some sort of emotional connection. They were our 'helmets' for the trip and they were really useful in keeping the sun out of our eyes. And I think one looks cool with it!

Trip wise, I would recommend Guernsey. Easy to get around, very easy to cycle, very pretty and chilled out. Perhaps coming in the Summer when one can enjoy the beach more and make the most of everything it has to offer.

Transport:

• Train ticket return (Southampton Airport Parkway - Poole): £20.40
• Ferry: £210 (bicycles travel free)
• TOTAL: £230.40

Accommodation:

• Wayside Cheer Hotel (3 nights): £387

Food & drinks:

• We spent £184.96 on lunch, dinner and teas. Please remember we are not heavy drinkers!

Attractions:

• Fort Grey: £8
• Guernsey Museum at Candie: £13
• Sausmarez Manor Sub-Tropical Gardens / Sculpture Park: £12
• Sausmarez Manor guided tour: £13
• TOTAL: £46

TOTAL per person:

• £424
• €500
• $582

Guernsey Day 4

Monday, 30th August 2021

Last day in Guernsey. 

There were a few attractions I would have liked to see but were closed like Victor Hugo's House and the Victorian Shop and Parlour, both in St. Peter Port, or the Folk & Costume Museum at the Saumarez Park but we had limited time left.

So in the end we had to choose what to do on our last day and we chose to spend it at the Sausmarez Manor.

Sausmarez Manor is the only stately home open for visiting in the island. It is a time capsule of the family who have been sailors, soldiers, inventors, adventure explorers, judges, generals, admirals, artists, governors, privateers, sportsmen, teachers, diplomats, merchants and collectors.

We visited the gardens first: Manor Sub-Tropical Gardens / Sculpture Park.

The garden feels like it is let to grow at leisure and only a bit of gardening here and there is done. I wonder if that is what they are aiming to do? This is a RHS Partner Garden so I assume they wouldn't get this title if it wasn't worth it. However, we have seen better gardens and we are not so sure whether it is worth the £6/person admission price.

Throughout the garden there are sculptures which you can buy. Most have a 4 digit price, some are cool, some aren't really that impressive.

At 11.30am the manor guided tour started. It cost £6.50/person (buying the garden ticket gives £1 discount on the guided tour ticket) but it was worth it. Very interesting family history, spanning 800 years of the ownership by the Seigneurs de Sausmarez. Photography not permitted inside.

For lunch we decided to try the Tea room at the manor, the manor's tearoom which are inside one of the manor's old greenhouses. We sat beneath the grapevine which is growing inside the greenhouse. Lunch was £12.

We wrapped up our Guernsey tour after lunch and headed to St. Peter Port's ferry port. We were too early for check-in and it was windy and a bit chilly so we sat in a protected area not far and waited until 2.30pm. 

We joined the queue of cars for the check-in and we thought it took a while. Waiting to board after check-in took even longer. We were standing outside waiting... Finally we boarded Condor ferry and had a tea as soon as we got inside to warm up. Expensive at £5.30 for 2 teas but we were freezing. It was supposed to depart at 3.45pm but we weren't that lucky! The ferry left almost 1 hour late.

Nightime arrival in Poole at the same time we were supposed to board the train home: 8pm. So we lost the train on the way to Poole and now we lost the train on the way home. Shit!

No choice but to take the next train. Someone must have pissed off the train guard because he already knew the ferry was late and a few people missed their train. We stayed put, said nothing, and managed to carry on our way without paying for a new ticket. Now, that's what I call lucky!!

Guernsey Day 3

Sunday, 29th August 2021

Today's plan was the inverse of yesterday: to cycle clockwise from our hotel. When possible we cycled in quiet country lanes which are well marked.

ROUSSE HEADLAND

Tower 11

At Rousse, the tower and battery (group of cannons or guns) are uniquely combined in a single fortification. This loopholed tower was originally built in the 19th century and it has replica cannons. It's fully restored and well maintained. The magazine (building where ammunition or other explosive material is kept) is a bit further out, possibly to reduce the risk of fire/explosion to the tower.

CHOUET BAY

L'ANCRESSE BAY

We looked everywhere for Les Fouillages, a 6500 years old complex burial monument. According to Google Maps it was somewhere in the middle of the golf course at L'Ancresse Common. We found several golf holes and there were plenty of brambles as well. The complex however, was nowhere to be seen. We quit!

La Varde

We moved to look for La Varde. This one was difficult to find but not impossible. To find it: look across the golf course, find the monolith with '2000' engraved and it's behind it.

La Varde is another prehistoric passage grave but this one is the largest and most impressive megalithic structure on the island. It was built during the Neolithic period (c.4000-2500BC) and was in use until the last Bronze Age (c.1000BC). The tomb is 10 metres long and the huge main capstone (top stone) weighs well over 10 tonnes.

It is easier to see inside this tomb as there is a gap between the capstones.

There is a bunker nearby, climb on it and appreciate the stunning views across the bay.

L'Ancresse Bay is large so it's understandable that it is protected by 5 loophole towers. We were surprised to find out that the easternmost tower, Tower 4, is privately owned. The owner was reading the newspaper at the door and we had a friendly talk. He bought the tower in the 80's and made it a weekend retreat. The windows have an amazing view towards the bay!

Fort Le Marchant

A fort stood on this site since at least 1680. At the end of the 18th century the original fortification, known as Fort L'Angle, was expanded. The work was completed in 1805 and the new fort named after the then Lieutenant Bailiff Eleazar Le Marchant.

EAST COAST

At Fort Doyle we turned into the east coast of the island.

Fort Doyle

This fort was completed in 1805 and named after the then Lieutenant Governor of the island, General Sir John Doyle.

Déhus Dolmen

Prehistoric passage grave with a narrow entrance and a broad chamber approximately 10 metres long. Findings inside were dated to 3500-2000BC. It has a light switch just on the left handside of the entrance - please switch off before leaving. The earth mound that usually covers these tombs was recreated and it was dotted with wildflowers.

It's supposed to have a carving on the top capstone featuring a bearded face, arms and hands, what appears to be a strung bow and a series of symbolic designs. However, we couldn't see any of this.

Bordeaux Harbour

As we inch closer to St. Peter Port, the countryside lanes and coastal beaches turn into towns and busy ports and harbours.

St. Peter Port

St. Peter Port is Guernsey's main city. 

We parked our bike's at the port's bicycle parking and headed off on foot exploring the city.

A public urinal, concealed but still on the street!

Town Church

It was 1pm and I was hungry. We found a crêperie and I decided that was exactly what I needed: Crêpe Maison. Food was delicious and worth the £36.80.

Prince Albert statue 

Unveiled in 1863, 2 years after his death, recalling the visit of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert to Guernsey in 1846.

Prince Albert statue with Town Church on the background

St. Peter Port Harbour 

Castle Cornet 

It is believed that the construction of the castle began in 1206 shortly after King John lost Normandy - but not the Channel Islands - to the French. Guernsey has been of strategic importance during centuries of European conflict and the castle has stood guard over St. Peter Port.

I planned to visit the castle but at £10.50/person to see mainly military stuff, we decided against.

Castle Breakwater Lighthouse

Built with granite in the second decade of the 1800's, the Castle Breakwater and St. Peter Port Lighthouse were created in response to a possible invasion of Napoleonic forces. The north-eastern face of the lighthouse is painted white, and vertical black & white stripes are painted on the head of the pier to make a more conspicuous day mark.

View from the harbour pier onto the city

There are rowing boats stored behind the protective wall of the harbour. I found the one below pretty as it has a vintage look and colour. It is also interesting to note that rowers leave their shoes attached to the feet rests. I assume theft is not rife here.

Guernsey Museum at Candie Gardens

I must admit I did not find the museum that interesting. The admission ticket was £6.50/person and I wouldn't visit again.

The most interesting knowledge was to understand about the local language (Guernésiais) and to understand the visual difference between rabbits and hares.

Hare (left) and rabbit (right)

However, it is worth popping into the museum to pick-up the key for the Victoria Tower. The tower is locked but a key for the door can be collected from the museum up to 30min before the museum closes. The key is given with a vote of confidence that you'll damage nothing, close the door behind you and return the key to the museum. And the tower is free to visit!

Victoria Tower

The tower was built in 1848 to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert to the island in 1846. The visit was brief but of great importance to the islanders as it was the first by a reigning monarch. It was built with local red granite from the Guet Quarry at Cobo.

It stands 100 feet high and has spectacular views across St. Peter Port and the north of the island from the viewing platform that circles the outside of the tower on its highest floor.

Candie Gardens 

Queen Victoria statue

Unveiled in 1900 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee in 1897.

Victor Hugo statue

Victor Hugo spent a number of years in exile on Guernsey and it was during that time that he wrote several of his famous books. In recognition of Guernsey's hospitality to Victor Hugo, the French Government present the island with a statue of the author in 1914.

La Valette Bathing Pools

The bathing pools have been providing a safe and contained area for salt water swimming in the city since 1865. The water in the pools comes directly from the sea at high tide. The height of the walls allows a certain amount of water to remain in the pools at low tide. The walls also  stop an excess of seaweed and sea creatures coming into the pools.

Shortly after the pools is the Jerbourg Peninsula so we declare our cycling around the island tour completed.

We head back to our hotel and I had this idea to get fish & chips from Cobo fish bar at Cobo Beach and seat on the beach eating and watching the sunset. Well, it didn't work out exactly as planned because the fish bar was closed, the 2 restaurants at Cobo Beach were fully booked and so we had nowhere to eat. Refusing to be defeated and refusing to miss the sunset, we decided to get some dinner from the local supermarket and seat on the beach. It wasn't the healthiest of dinners but it certainly was the cheapest at £5.36. 

It was a bit cold. I wrapped myself on my towel and hugged Jorge for some extra heat. In the end the sun set behind a cloud... it was still pretty and romantic.