Saturday, 28th August 2021
We slept really well, had an early breakfast and set off at 9am. Today's plan was to cycle around the island, counter-clockwise, setting off from where we are staying: Grandes Rocques.
The north-western coast of the island is flat and I would describe it as a succession of golden sand beaches and bays. Beautiful beaches and beautiful bays. I could see myself having a lovely day at the beach on a hot sunny day. Some bays have small ports with what looks like small fishing boats.
Cycling is easy on the road and traffic wasn't massive but it did pick up after 10am and there aren't really cycle lanes so you have to be a confident cyclist.
COBO BAY
Grande Rocques Fort
Remains of the fort on the background with it's magazine in front. The magazine is the building where ammunition or other explosive material is kept.
 |
| View from the fort towards the beach |
Mim's Kiosk at Cobo: 'kiosk' in Guernsey is what everyone else calls a 'Beach Café'. Almost every beach has one!
At Cobo Beach however, the kiosk is rather original. It's pink/purple colour scheme is dashing and the owner's car is a purple Porsche. I have never seen a Porsche in such a daring colour!
Bus Stop
Bus stops in Guernsey are as stark as you can get. A sign painted on the sidewalk means no standing ugly stop sign. It also means they are more difficult to spot from the bus. A wooden bench to wait but no cover for the bad weather. Doesn't it rain here?!?
VAZON BAY
Fort Hommet
The first fortification recorded on this site was dated 1680 and it had 1 gun. By 1801 it had 6 guns. Remains of the gun's positioning can clearly be seen.
Vazon Beach
Tower 12
Napoleonic tower built to defend the bay. It has it's own magazine (building where ammunition or other explosive material is kept) and battery (group of cannons or guns).
At the outbreak of the American War of Independence in 1776, France became an ally of the Americans. Loyal to the English Crown, the Channel Islands found themselves in danger of attack or invasion by the French. As a response to this threat, 15 loophole towers were built around the coast of the island between August 1778 and March 1779. The towers were intended to function as guard houses and barracks and to support nearby cannon batteries.
Drawing of how the towers looked like inside:
 |
| Credits: Culture & Leisure - States of Guernsey |
Le Creux ès Faïes
Prehistoric passage grave 9 meters long with a narrow entrance expanding into a round ended chamber. The tomb was built during the Neolithic period (c.4000-2500BC) and was in use until the late Bronze Age (c.1000BC). Burials or cremations were deposited within the chamber together with grave goods such as pottery, flint and stone tools.
The tomb is known locally as the 'cave of the fairies'. It was thought that fairies came out at midnight on moonlight nights to dance.
The tomb is empty. Although the entrance is narrow, one can stand inside. I'm not quite sure how many people they would be able to burry here as it doesn't look that big to have been used for thousands of years...
 |
Plenty of swimmers. We asked the lady managing the entrance to Fort Grey what was with sea swimming and she tells us it is a local sport: swimming during high tide. She had wet hair as she herself went for a swim before the start of her shift. The water is cold and you can tell they don't stay in for long and wrap themselves up as soon as they are out.
Fort Grey
Standing on the site of the earlier Château de Rocquaine, Fort Grey was completed in 1804. It was named Fort Grey in honour of General Charles, Earl Grey of Howick, who was Governor of Guernsey from 1797 to 1807. The concentric design and white tower has led the fort to be affectionally known as the 'Cup and Saucer'.
 |
| View of the bay from the fort |
 |
| Model of the fort |
Inside the fort's tower there is a very good Shipwreck Museum.
 |
| A cartoon illustrating the event |
Admission to the fort and museum is £4 per person.
Fort Pezeries
 |
| Fort Pezeris and Rocquaine Bay |
Very close to the fort a stone circle can be seen. It consists of a circular ditch with a circle of stones lying around the outside. The date of construction is unknown, although presumed to be late 18th or 19th century and it is linked to the Guernsey tradition of the Chevauchée. This was a procession that went around the island checking the condition of the roads every 3 years. The Table des Pions was one of the many stopping points along the route and it was here that the pions (or footmen of the officials who rode on horses) sat for their afternoon refreshments. The earliest record of the Chevauchée dates to 1530 but the tradition fell into decline at the end of the 17th century.
The Table des Pions is also known as the Fairy Ring and there are many stories of fairies and witches meeting here.
We left our bikes by the fort and walked around the area which is the westernmost tip of the island. We found a secluded area where the wind became a gentle breeze and found a wooden bench to sit, taking in the view and the sound of the sea. Hanois lighthouse can be seen ahead.
 |
| Hanois Lighthouse |
 |
| Hanoi Lighthouse model at the Shipwreck Museum, Fort Grey |
We were now turning the tip of the island and cycling on top of the cliffs of the south coast. The road doesn't always go as close to the edge of the island for obvious reasons but we chose some minor roads that zigzagged along. Good views of the never ending sea.
PLEINMONT
Coastal Artillery Battery Generaloberst Dollmann
On 30th June 1940, German forces invaded Guernsey. They were to occupy the island for the next 5 years. In October 1941, Hitler issued orders for the permanent fortification of the Channel Islands. Within 3 years, they became one of the most heavily fortified outposts of occupied Europe.
This coastal artillery battery was equipped with guns, mortars, machine-guns and searchlights. It has 2 levels below ground, the operations room on the upper floor and the crew accommodation below. Not open for visits.
MP4 L'Angle
Approximately 250 yards to the left of the battery there is a Marinepeilstanden and Messtellen (Naval Range and Direction Finding Positions). This one is called MP4 L'Angle.
PETIT BÔT BAY
Along one of the many country lanes, we stopped to access directions and a couple walking a dog stopped for some chatting. They told us what we already knew: keep to small lanes closer to the coast for the best views and chilled riding. They also advised us to stop at Le Gouffre Café for lunch. We followed their suggestion but it was past 2pm and the island's hospitality business is severely understaffed so they refused to serve anyone else until dinner time. We continued along the coast to the next bay: Petit Bôt Bay.
Cycling down to the bay was fun. A steep, quick and narrow road. It would be more difficult to return back up.
Car parking is very limited at the bay and cars are parked along the side of the narrow road. Cycling however provides an advantage as no parking required.
We were starving by now and stopped for lunch at the bay's kiosk: Petit Bôt Tearooms. I had a sandwich that tasted like Hawaiian pizza and Jorge's burger was basic but double, both washed down with Lipton Lemon Ice Tea which, as far as I'm concerned, will always be THE ultimate Summer drink. Warm and sunny days always lead to ice-cream which I thought was local but no. They were Yarde Farm ice-cream from Devon. We ate very well for £20.
The beach looked big but I suspect it's due to being low tide. I can see it being much smaller at high tide. It is tuck between the sides of the bay so well protected from the wind.
Tower 13
Napoleonic tower built to defend the bay.
SAINT'S BAY
Saints Bay is very similar to Petit Bôt Bay but perhaps a bit wider and it's beach slightly bigger.
There is also a kiosk and we noticed that kiosks tend to have public toilets attached to them. I wonder if they were designed in this way so that they share the plumbing and to provide the same kind of basic facilities for beachgoers. They are also usually clean and have soap and toilet paper. Guernsey provides great service to tourists.
Watersports are popular in the island. As in Petit Bôt Bay, canoes at the beach. Earlier in the day, we saw kayakers at Vazon Bay. Plus the many swimmers along the beaches.
A sign at the entrance of the bay in both English and French, one more sign of the culture mixture of the island.
Saint's Bay Harbour
We decided to continue via Saint's Bay Road and reach Saint's Bay Harbour. A few boats dotting the harbour and I found the harbour ramp covered in very pretty moss.
The harbour also provides wonderful views to Saint's Bay and the Napoleonic Tower 14.
This is the south-eastern point of the island, where the east coast cliffs end and the south coast cliffs start.
It was a clear day and the views across Little Russel (the channel running between Guernsey and Herm) and the other islands is wide and beautiful.
 |
| View towards Sark |
Coastal riding is easy except when you have to descend and then ascend from the bays. However, I was tired of cycling all day. We decided to head back to the hotel, get our swimsuits and head to the beach in front of our hotel, Grandes Rocques Beach, for some well deserved rest. It was sunny but it wasn't that hot though. With temperatures of around 19⁰C, I kept my t-shirt on whilst sunbathing. One hour was all we managed before returning to the hotel for a warm shower.
Searching online for somewhere to have dinner, we realised that there weren't many options and that there weren't many restaurants with available tables. Restaurants close early, at 9pm, and the understaffing results in less bookings. Finally we booked a table at Crabby Jack's at Vazon Bay.
Our expectations weren't high but we were happily surprised. Decor was cool, food was great and staff were amazing. Dinner was £64.
No comments:
Post a Comment