Sunday, 29th August 2021
Today's plan was the inverse of yesterday: to cycle clockwise from our hotel. When possible we cycled in quiet country lanes which are well marked.
Tower 11
At Rousse, the tower and battery (group of cannons or guns) are uniquely combined in a single fortification. This loopholed tower was originally built in the 19th century and it has replica cannons. It's fully restored and well maintained. The magazine (building where ammunition or other explosive material is kept) is a bit further out, possibly to reduce the risk of fire/explosion to the tower.
L'ANCRESSE BAY
We looked everywhere for Les Fouillages, a 6500 years old complex burial monument. According to Google Maps it was somewhere in the middle of the golf course at L'Ancresse Common. We found several golf holes and there were plenty of brambles as well. The complex however, was nowhere to be seen. We quit!
La Varde
We moved to look for La Varde. This one was difficult to find but not impossible. To find it: look across the golf course, find the monolith with '2000' engraved and it's behind it.
La Varde is another prehistoric passage grave but this one is the largest and most impressive megalithic structure on the island. It was built during the Neolithic period (c.4000-2500BC) and was in use until the last Bronze Age (c.1000BC). The tomb is 10 metres long and the huge main capstone (top stone) weighs well over 10 tonnes.
It is easier to see inside this tomb as there is a gap between the capstones.
There is a bunker nearby, climb on it and appreciate the stunning views across the bay.
L'Ancresse Bay is large so it's understandable that it is protected by 5 loophole towers. We were surprised to find out that the easternmost tower, Tower 4, is privately owned. The owner was reading the newspaper at the door and we had a friendly talk. He bought the tower in the 80's and made it a weekend retreat. The windows have an amazing view towards the bay!
A fort stood on this site since at least 1680. At the end of the 18th century the original fortification, known as Fort L'Angle, was expanded. The work was completed in 1805 and the new fort named after the then Lieutenant Bailiff Eleazar Le Marchant.
At Fort Doyle we turned into the east coast of the island.
Fort Doyle
This fort was completed in 1805 and named after the then Lieutenant Governor of the island, General Sir John Doyle.
Prehistoric passage grave with a narrow entrance and a broad chamber approximately 10 metres long. Findings inside were dated to 3500-2000BC. It has a light switch just on the left handside of the entrance - please switch off before leaving. The earth mound that usually covers these tombs was recreated and it was dotted with wildflowers.
It's supposed to have a carving on the top capstone featuring a bearded face, arms and hands, what appears to be a strung bow and a series of symbolic designs. However, we couldn't see any of this.
Bordeaux Harbour
As we inch closer to St. Peter Port, the countryside lanes and coastal beaches turn into towns and busy ports and harbours.
St. Peter Port
St. Peter Port is Guernsey's main city.
We parked our bike's at the port's bicycle parking and headed off on foot exploring the city.
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| A public urinal, concealed but still on the street! |
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| Town Church |
It was 1pm and I was hungry. We found a crêperie and I decided that was exactly what I needed: Crêpe Maison. Food was delicious and worth the £36.80.
Unveiled in 1863, 2 years after his death, recalling the visit of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert to Guernsey in 1846.
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| Prince Albert statue with Town Church on the background |
It is believed that the construction of the castle began in 1206 shortly after King John lost Normandy - but not the Channel Islands - to the French. Guernsey has been of strategic importance during centuries of European conflict and the castle has stood guard over St. Peter Port.
I planned to visit the castle but at £10.50/person to see mainly military stuff, we decided against.
Built with granite in the second decade of the 1800's, the Castle Breakwater and St. Peter Port Lighthouse were created in response to a possible invasion of Napoleonic forces. The north-eastern face of the lighthouse is painted white, and vertical black & white stripes are painted on the head of the pier to make a more conspicuous day mark.
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| View from the harbour pier onto the city |
I must admit I did not find the museum that interesting. The admission ticket was £6.50/person and I wouldn't visit again.
The most interesting knowledge was to understand about the local language (Guernésiais) and to understand the visual difference between rabbits and hares.
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| Hare (left) and rabbit (right) |
The tower was built in 1848 to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert to the island in 1846. The visit was brief but of great importance to the islanders as it was the first by a reigning monarch. It was built with local red granite from the Guet Quarry at Cobo.
It stands 100 feet high and has spectacular views across St. Peter Port and the north of the island from the viewing platform that circles the outside of the tower on its highest floor.
Victor Hugo statue
Victor Hugo spent a number of years in exile on Guernsey and it was during that time that he wrote several of his famous books. In recognition of Guernsey's hospitality to Victor Hugo, the French Government present the island with a statue of the author in 1914.
We head back to our hotel and I had this idea to get fish & chips from Cobo fish bar at Cobo Beach and seat on the beach eating and watching the sunset. Well, it didn't work out exactly as planned because the fish bar was closed, the 2 restaurants at Cobo Beach were fully booked and so we had nowhere to eat. Refusing to be defeated and refusing to miss the sunset, we decided to get some dinner from the local supermarket and seat on the beach. It wasn't the healthiest of dinners but it certainly was the cheapest at £5.36.
It was a bit cold. I wrapped myself on my towel and hugged Jorge for some extra heat. In the end the sun set behind a cloud... it was still pretty and romantic.
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