Montenegro day 2: But we've already paid!

Monday, 3rd October 2022

The flat is warm and spacious and the bed is comfortable. The only complaint is that there are only a limited amount of pillows and they are all too thin.

The view from the back balcony is not the most appealing but the view from the front window is wonderful. Nothing like the 6th floor for wide views!

Breakfast was at the Independence Square, at Forum. It has a very nice outside seating area and that is where we wanted to seat. Unfortunately, Montenegrins smoke quite a bit and it was difficult to find a table away from smoke, so we settled for the inside.

We ordered way too much food but we ate it all and it cost €22.

Classic omelette

Homemade donuts - Priganice (good if you have with cheese & honey, not with just cheese or just honey)

Breaded pancakes with domestic ham

Nacional breakfast

Independence Square (Trg Republike)

In Montenegro there is a tourist tax that you must pay in each city that you stay. Also described online as 'city tax'. We paid for Podgorica's when we booked the flat but the host's English wasn't great so I told him not to worry, I would register us today. The tourist office registration is at Slobode Street, off Independence Square. All you need is your passport and declare how many days you're staying (no proof required). I told them we had paid the tax directly to the host but the office lady was adamant we had to pay at the time of registration. But we have already paid! I was getting annoyed. Not wanting me to enter into an argument, Manuel quickly slipped the money to her. To our dismay, they rounded up the tax upwards. What was supposed to be €0.90/person/day = €5.40, was promptly rounded up to €6.

Today we were exploring the Stari Varoš (Old Town).

Podgoricas' name

In the Middle Ages the city was known as 'Ribnica'. From 1326, 'Podgorica' was used. Podgorica literally means 'area below Gorica', which makes sense as Gorica Hill is north of the Old Town. From 1946-1992, the city was named 'Titograd' in honour of Josip Broz Tito, the President of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (1953-1980). In 1992 the city changed its name to 'Podgorica' again.

The city was largely destroyed during WWII hence the majority of architecture is from the 20th century and the city has an orthogonal layout.

Old Bridge over the Ribnica river (Stari most na Ribnici) is the oldest bridge in Podgorica. It spans the Ribnica river, near its confluence with Morača river. It was built by the Romans and underwent a major reconstruction in the 18th century.

On the south side of the bridge, on top of the hill, sits the Ribnica Fortress (Tvrđava Ribnica). Well, the ruins of the 15th century Ottoman-built fortress to guard the confluence of Podgorica's two rivers.

Part of the walls were clearly reconstructed.

At the top of the fortress we found what looks like a stage for outdoor performances.

Behind the fortress walls, someone's back garden with fruit trees.

There aren't many old buildings in the Old Town (Stari Varoš). It has a village feel with modern-looking houses. Some stone houses and others with wood features that look old but those are the rarity.

Starodoganjska Mosque (Starodoganjska džamija) looks pretty new for a building that is supposed to be from the 15th century.

Osmanagić Mosque (Osmanagića džamija) was built in the 18th century. This one looks its age and it has been well kept.

The Clock Tower (Sahat kula) is over 300 years old, stands at 16m tall and, at the time of the Ottoman rule, was useful for signalling Muslim prayer times.

King's Park (Kraljev Park)

King Nikola monument (2005): King Nikola I from the House of Petrović-Njegoš, the last Montenegrin sovereign.

We finally understood why the park has HI initials on the gates. Nikola I in Cyrillic is: Никола I.

Gorica Park is located on the Gorica Hill (130m high), north of the Old Town, and is an oasis of cool in the Summer months. It has several trails which you can walk or cycle. We walked the trail around the edge of the park.

Some parts of the trail are in good condition, some are not.

Monument to Partisan Soldiers (1957): mausoleum of 2 revolutionaries and 66 national heroes killed in the People Liberation War during WWII.

North side viewpoint: great views.

South side viewpoint: obstructed views.

It has a few coffee shops with colourful seating.

The only water fountain we've seen.

These are found around Podgorica but the city is fairly small so easy to walk around.

Public obituaries on the street.

There are cycle lanes in the New Town but we barely saw any cyclists.

We returned in the afternoon for a better photo of the Old Bridge over the Ribnica river. 

Then we carried on walking by the river northbound and we found the walk extends up to the Millennium bridge. 

With some good long chairs for enjoying the sun.

Below Millennium and Moscow bridges there is a beach: Galeb (Plaža Galeb). I wouldn't necessarily call it a beach. Perhaps it looks better in the Summer?

Bokeska Street is a small but very popular street. It has a few restaurants, bars and coffee shops with outside seating area and it's always busy, day and night. We had dinner there yesterday and we had drinks there today at Bistro Loft.

We walked back towards our flat and had dinner at Pod Volat, near the Clock Tower. 

Millennium Bridge at dusk.

Clock Tower by night.

Service was great, food was excellent, desserts not so much. It has a local's restaurant feel. For 1 soup + 3 mains + 4 side dishes + 1 beer + 1 juice + water + 2 desserts we paid €47. It's definitely good value for money which explains why there were so many Montenegrins eating there.

Roasted lamb / Veal kebabs / Goulash / Sarajevo bread:

Chocolate cake 'Pod Volat' (too much coconut!) / Kadaif (Middle Eastern dessert of finely shredded filo pastry soaked in a syrup with sultanas - too sweet!):

We found these statues on the corner of Njegoseva Street. It represents the Russian poet Alexander Pushkin reading poetry to his wife, Natalia Goncharova. It was a gift from Moscow in 2002.